Amateur house painters didn’t have as much help as today. Many new paints and equipment put on the market in the last couple of years make it possible for the weekend handyman to create his own house nearly as easily as a professional. From one-coat paints to disposable blowtorches, all items have been designed to result in the job go faster, look better and expense less.
With the new outside rollers, you can paint an average-size house over a couple of days. Add an extension handle and you can roll a terrace without stooping down, reach a roof covering without leaving the ground.
Painting Hard Spots
Specialized aids with built-in know, how tackle the difficult spots for you.
Even better, you don’t have to spend hours preparing and hours taking care of afterward. Premixed paints, electric-drill attachments and self-dispensing calking guns make short work of preparation. Taking care of is a soap-and-water job for the rubber paints, or perhaps a quick dip in special cleaners for the oils. Disposable dropcloths and paper paint pails are employed once and dumped.
In this section are a couple of tips on techniques and tools making it easier to paint the house than ever before – not the way the “pro” does, perhaps, but much the same results.
The word paint is used to feature paints, varnishes, enamels, shellacs, lacquers, and stains.
• Paints are made of mineral pigments, organic vehicles, plus a variety of thinners all combined.
• Varnishes are resins dissolved in organic thinners.
• Enamels are pigmented varnishes.
• Shellac is lac gum dissolved in alcohol.
• Lacquers might be both pigmented or clear – the liquid portion usually is treated nitrocellulose dissolve in thinners.
• Stains could possibly be pigmented oil or a penetrating type.
Several materials, such as paints, varnishes, and lacquers, are formulated for particular purposes:
• Outside house paints and exterior varnishes are intended to give good service when encountered with weathering
• Interior wall paints are formulated to give excellent coverage and good wash-ability.
• Floor enamels are made to withstand abrasion.
• Lacquers are formulated for rapid drying.
• There’s also formulas which provide extra self-cleaning, fume- resisting, waterproofing, hardening, flexibility, mildew-resisting, effectiveness against fading, and breathing qualities.
Interior paints are used to obtain pleasing decorative effects, improve sanitary conditions, and insure better lighting. These paints might be divided into four types: wall primers; one-coat flats; flat, semigloss, and gloss; and water paints.
Wall primers or primer-sealers are designed to be applied directly to bare plaster, wallboard, and similar porous surfaces to give a uniform, sealed surface for subsequent coats of paint. A normal wall primer could possibly be made from varnish or bodied-oil vehicle and hiding pigments. It really is intended to penetrate only slightly into porous surfaces.
The primers are best applied with a wide wall brush.
One-coat flat paints are organic-solvent-thinned paints intended to accomplish priming, sealing, and finish coating in one operation. They are often sold in thin paste form in order that additional inexpensive thinner could be added and mixed before application to raise the volume of paint by one-fourth or even more.
Flat, semigloss, and gloss interior paints and enamels vary in a higher level gloss, hiding power, as well as other properties. Paints giving the best hiding power are typically paints of lowest gloss, although some modern high-gloss enamels also have good hiding power.
Water-thinned interior paints are calcimine, casein, resin-emulsion, and gloss water paints. Calcimine includes powdered whiting and clay mixed with an animal-glue binder and a preservative. It cannot be recoated, but sometimes be easily washed off before redecorating.
There’s no need to remove casein before recoating but, if de-sired, it can be softened by washing with hot solutions of trisodium phosphate. Resin-emulsion paints, marketed in paste form, can be thinned with water and, when properly made and applied, adhere well to plaster and offer a good decorative medium. They need not be removed before redecorating, provided the film is in sound condition. This is also true of gloss water paints.
New Paints Give You Pro’s Skill
Painting the house will be easier than ever – driving under the influence the right paint. But it’s going to be harder than previously to pick it.
In the past, paint was paint. One kind looked, smelled, was applied and eventually dried much like another. The situation is different now. Besides oil paints, you can choose from a new set of paints. It’ll pay out to know about them.
• You can find water paints you should use outside. (You clean your brushes within the faucet and use the backyard hose to get spatters off of the shrubbery.)
• There are finishes so tough they withstand even attacks through the neighbors’ children.
• There are paints that dry so quickly you start the second coat whenever you finish putting on the 1st.
• There are colors in glittering confusion.
No product can do these things. There are several types, all available with a variety of trade names. The trade names are, that will put it kindly, confusing. As an example, two brands of the new paints use “rubber” of their trade names, yet neither is really a rubber-latex paint and each is actually an entirely different form of paint from the other. To get the right paint you will need to read the fine print for the label and find out precisely what is actually inside the can.
Vinyl is a cousin to the tough plastic used for upholstery and roof tiles, but it comes thinned with water ready that you can brush, roll or spray on. The label for the can may say vinyl, vinyl emulsion, polyvinyl acetate or PVA.
You should use vinyl on almost any exterior except previously painted wood. It really works fine on wood shingles and shakes, asbestos shingles, brick, stucco, concrete and masonry blocks. One manufacturer says you may also put it on wood clapboard when the clapboard is new and unprimed.
The key advantage of vinyl could be the thinner – water. You will get all the advantages of easy cleanup that have made interior water paints popular.
Suppose it rains while you’re working? Vinyl paint dries fast – you’d like 10 to 30 minutes – and will withstand a bath after that time. It takes another 12 hours to “cure,” at that same moment forming an exceptionally tough, long-lasting film that stands up well against weather, sun, salt air and factory smoke.
One precaution: You simply can’t paint with it in cold temperature. The chemical reaction that transforms the water solution into a durable finish will not take place if the temperature is below 50°. (Conventional oil paints don’t stick well in winter, either.)
Some manufacturers recommend their vinyl paints for interior as well as exterior use; others refuse, not so good. You’ll find vinyls made specifically for interiors.
Definitely good inside the house is a new vinyl primer-sealer to be utilized as a base coat under any paint. It dries within 30 minutes.
You can put it around a space and probably follow immediately with all the finish coat. It is usually applied with brush or roller.
Acrylic will be the second new term for magic in paints. This is also a plastic-in-water. Solid acrylic you already know as the beautiful, glasslike Plexiglas and Lucite.
Indoors is where acrylic shines. It dries quicker than other types, and it keeps its color better, without yellowing. One disadvantage: It costs more.
Some acrylics will also be recommended for exteriors (within the same kinds of materials as vinyl paints). Here it has a big advantage – you don’t need to pick your painting weather so carefully. It may be applied on humid days plus cold seasons, so long as the temperature is several degrees above freezing.
Alkyd is definitely an old interior paint made newly popular by a change in solvent – a super-refined petroleum chemical that has almost no odor. It’s not at all a water paint. You thin it and clean brushes with mineral spirits or turpentine, or, if you want to retain the odorless feature, together with the new odorless solvent. (Ask the paint-store man for that, odorless solvent).
Alkyd has solid advantages overriding the slight cleanup in-convenience. It really is exceptionally tough and incredibly resistant to scrubbing. It stands up well in the problem areas – trim, bathroom, kitchen. Which is easy to apply, creating a smooth, even finish free from streaks and brush marks.
The alkyds haven’t much odor, but don’t forget the solvent is a petroleum product and it is vapor is there even if you can’t smell it. It will make you sick also it burns very easily, such as the vapor of older paint solvents. So play safe: Keep windows open and keep flames away.
The previous reliable are not to be overlooked either. Conventional oil paints is now able to had in deodorized version, made with the same odorless solvent found in the alkyds. And oil paint has much rolling around in its favor. It is sold everywhere; its virtues and faults are very established through centuries people; it makes a tough film on nearly every surface; it offers the best color range; which is often cheaper.
Water-thinned rubber-latex paint has already been an old reliable, even though it is only about Decade old. It is the reason for a big percentage of all paint sold and is still the most acquireable of the easy-to-use finishes. One new type can be a combination vinyl-rubber paint that is said to do a better job on interiors than either vinyl or rubber alone as it dries faster, lasts longer and has less sheen.
Most paints are ordered ready-mixed but, in their selection, consideration must be given to the fact that surfaces vary in their adaptability to paint and atmospheric or another conditions having an adverse influence on paint performance. Beyond the normal weathering action of the weather, outside house paints are now and again exposed to other attacking elements, for example corrosive fumes from factories or excessive levels of wind-driven dust.
For localities where such conditions exist, self-cleaning paints ought to be selected. These paints are generally so designated for the label. Concrete, plaster, and metal surfaces each present special problems in painting. For instance, paint for use on masonry or new plaster must be resistant to dampness and alkalies, and paints suited for steel must have rust-inhibitive properties.
Color – The paint makers are in the market to sell the lady of the home and color could be the come-on. They are tempting her having a kaleidoscope’s variety; one firm provides more than 6,000 different shades.
Practically every manufacturer carries a “color system,” a fat book of color chips with instructions for duplicating each chip. This can be done by intermixing cans of colored paint, by having a concentrated color to a can of white or colored paint, or with the help of concentrated color or colors to some can of neutral “base” paint. And then for those who don’t want any guesswork there’s the Color Carousel that mixes the paints in the actual store. Whatever the method, it’s wise a range of colors such as no amateur painter has witnessed.
Paste paints, for example aluminum, resin-emulsion, and lead-in-oil, ought to be stirred with a stiff paddle and reduced to painting consistency with the liquids recommended around the manufacturer’s labels.
Paints in powdered form need the addition of a liquid to arrange them for use. The manufacturer’s directions as to the amount of oil, varnish, water, or another vehicle required should be followed.
“Boxing” is a good method of mixing paints. Since paint is a mixture of solids and liquids, it is essential that it be mixed thoroughly before using. To achieve this, the greater portion of the liquid valuables in the can needs to be poured in a clean bucket somewhat greater than the paint can. Then, having a stiff paddle, the settled pigment in the original container should be loosened and any lumps split up. After this, mix the fabric in the container thoroughly, utilizing a figure 8 motion, and follow which has a lifting and beating motion. Continue stirring the mix vigorously while slowly adding the liquid that was previously poured from the top. Complete the blending by pouring the paint from one container to the other several times until the entire amount is of uniform consistency.
Paste and powder paints must be mixed in quantities sufficient for fast use only, as these materials often become unfit for application if able to stand for three or more hours.
If paints have been allowed to stand and difficult lumps or skin have formed, skin or scum should be removed, after which it the paint can be stirred and strained through screen wire or through a couple of thicknesses of cheesecloth.
If a desired shade just isn’t obtainable in custom-or ready-mixed paints, white paints could possibly be tinted with colors-in-oil. To achieve this, mix the color-in-oil using a small amount of turpentine or mineral spirits and stir this to the white paint, a bit at a time. If a blended color is desired, many color may be added, like a chrome green and chrome yellow pigments to produce a lettuce green shade.